How to Choose a camping Chair | Essential Checklist of 2024

Did you know that the average camper spends about 4-5 hours per day sitting at their campsite? Your camping chair choice can make or break your outdoor experience!

In this comprehensive guide, you’ll discover everything you need to know about selecting the perfect camping chair that matches your outdoor lifestyle.

From weekend warriors to seasoned backpackers, we’ll help you make an informed decision that’ll keep you comfortable around the campfire for years to come.

1-Understanding Different Types of Camping Chairs

Getting the right camping chair can make or break your outdoor experience.

After countless camping trips and testing dozens of styles, here’s your comprehensive guide to choosing the perfect seat for your outdoor adventures.

Traditional Fold-Out Chairs:

Your Reliable Companion When you’re car camping or setting up at a holiday park, traditional fold-out chairs offer brilliant value.

These familiar chairs typically support up to 120 kg and feature handy cupholders and storage pockets. Look for models with sturdy aluminium frames and 600D polyester fabric – they’ll withstand years of use at the campground.

The Coleman Oversized Quad Chair serves as a top choice, offering exceptional stability and comfort for around $60 NZD.

Ultralight Backpacking Chairs:

Perfect for the Trail For tramping enthusiasts, every gram counts. Modern ultralight chairs have revolutionised backcountry comfort.

The Helinox Chair Zero, weighing just 500 grams, packs down smaller than a water bottle. While these chairs sit lower to the ground, they’re a game-changer after a long day on the trail. Expect to invest between $150-300 NZD for a quality ultralight chair.

Rocking Camp Chairs:

Next-Level Comfort Picture yourself gently rocking beside the campfire.

Portable rocking chairs use curved rails or spring-loaded systems to create that soothing motion. The GCI Outdoor Freestyle Rocker has proven particularly reliable, featuring a smooth rocking action and solid construction. Just keep in mind these chairs need relatively flat ground to function properly.

Zero-Gravity Recliners:

Ultimate Relaxation When space isn’t an issue, zero-gravity chairs offer unmatched comfort. These chairs recline to distribute your weight evenly, reducing pressure points and creating a floating sensation.

They’re brilliant for stargazing or afternoon naps, though they’re a bit bulky for basic camping. The Quest Elite range offers excellent value, with models featuring adjustable headrests and side tables.

Low-Profile Beach Chairs:

Sand-Friendly Seating Sandy surfaces demand specialised seating. Low-profile beach chairs sit closer to the ground with wider feet to prevent sinking.

The Comfortable Beach Chair by Wanderer features rust-resistant materials and a handy carrying strap. These chairs work brilliantly for beach camping or summer festivals.

Two-Person Love Seats:

Sharing the Experience For couples or families, double-wide camping chairs offer a cosy seating solution.

These chairs typically support up to 180 kg and create a lovely spot for sharing sunset views. The Kelty Low-Love Seat has earned rave reviews for its durability and comfort, though it does take up more boot space.

Canopy Chairs:

Weather Protection Built-In When you’re facing unpredictable weather, chairs with built-in canopies prove incredibly useful.

These chairs feature adjustable overhead coverage, protecting you from both sun and light rain. The Kiwi Camping Shelter Chair offers reliable protection without breaking the bank.

Portable Stools and Ground Chairs:

Minimalist Options Sometimes simple is best. Three-legged stools and ground chairs offer ultra-portable seating solutions.

While they mightn’t provide the same comfort as full-sized chairs, they’re perfect for quick breaks or when space is at absolute premium. The Coleman Event Stool weighs just 700 grams and supports up to 100 kg.

Your Choice Matters Consider your primary camping style when selecting a chair. Car campers can prioritise comfort over portability, while trampers need to focus on weight and pack size.

Whatever your choice, a quality camping chair will enhance your outdoor experience and provide years of reliable service.

Remember to check weight ratings, assess build quality, and consider the chair’s packed size before making your purchase. A bit of research now will ensure countless comfortable moments in the great outdoors.

2-Key Features to Consider

I’ve spent countless weekends testing different camping chairs over the years, and crikey, have I learned some valuable lessons about what really matters when choosing one!

Let me share what I’ve discovered about the key features you should look for, based on quite a few uncomfortable sitting experiences (and eventually, some brilliant ones).

First up, let’s talk about weight capacity and frame materials.

I learned this one the hard way when my aluminium chair collapsed during a school camping trip – quite the embarrassing moment in front of my students! Most quality camping chairs nowadays should support between 120-150 kg, but don’t just trust the numbers.

Look for chairs with steel frames for maximum durability, though they’re a bit heavier. Aluminium frames are lighter but need reinforced joints and thicker tubing to match steel’s strength. I’ve found powder-coated steel frames tend to last longest in our humid Kiwi weather.

When it comes to portability, you’ve got to balance comfort with practicality. My current favourite chair packs down to about 90 x 20 cm – small enough to strap onto my tramping pack but still substantial enough to be properly comfortable.

The carrying weight is crucial too. I recommend keeping it under 4 kg if you’ll be walking any distance.

Anything heavier and you’ll start cursing it halfway up the track (trust me, I’ve been there).

The comfort features are where things get interesting, and they’re absolutely worth paying attention to.

The ideal seat height for most adults is between 40-45 cm – low enough to be stable but high enough that you’re not struggling to stand up after a few hours by the campfire.

I always tell my students to look for a seat width of at least 50 cm. Anything narrower and you’ll feel like you’re sitting in a primary school chair!

Back support is possibly the most crucial comfort element. A slight recline angle of about 10-15 degrees provides good support without making you feel like you’re falling backwards. Some chairs have adjustable tension in the back panel, which is brilliant for customising your comfort level.

Now, onto those extra features that might seem like luxuries until you actually use them. A good cup holder isn’t just about holding your coffee – it needs to be deep enough (at least 7 cm) to prevent spills on uneven ground. I’ve ruined more than one good book by having a shallow cup holder!

Storage pockets are dead useful for keeping your phone, torch, or snacks within reach. As for headrests, they’re lovely for stargazing but make sure they’re adjustable or removable, as they can be a right pain when you’re wearing a hat.

One thing that often gets overlooked is the chair’s feet design. The best ones have wide, slightly flared feet that stop you from sinking into soft ground.

I spent one whole weekend gradually disappearing into some soft grass because my chair had those tiny feet – not ideal when you’re trying to maintain your dignity as a teacher!

Remember, these features will affect both the chair’s price and weight, so prioritise what matters most for your specific camping style.

If you’re car camping, go nuts with the features. If you’re hiking to your campsite, you might want to be more selective about which luxuries you’re willing to carry.

3-Material and Durability Considerations

When it comes to frame materials, I’ve had my fair share of experiences with both aluminium and steel poles.

Just last autumn, I was setting up camp in the Tongariro National Park when I really got to appreciate the lightweight nature of my aluminium-framed tent.

At just under 1.8 kg for the poles, it made the uphill trek so much more manageable. Aluminium frames typically weigh about 30% less than their steel counterparts. But here’s the thing – they’re not always the best choice.

Steel frames have their place, especially if you’re after a semi-permanent setup. Back when I was running outdoor education programmes, our steel-framed tents withstood three seasons of constant use by enthusiastic teenagers.

While steel poles weigh more (usually 2.5-3 kg for a similar sized tent), they’re brilliant for withstanding those notorious Wellington winds. Plus, they’re typically 40% cheaper than aluminium options.

Let’s talk about fabric choices – this is where things get properly interesting! I learned the hard way about polyester versus canvas when my first polyester tent faced a particularly wet weekend in the Coromandel.

Modern polyester tents have a hydrostatic head rating between 2000-5000mm, which sounds brilliant on paper.

But what they don’t tell you is how the waterproofing can deteriorate over time. After about two years of regular use, you might notice the fabric starting to leak in heavy rain.

Canvas, though? That’s a different story altogether. My canvas tent is still going strong after five years of regular use.

The natural fibre actually becomes more waterproof as it gets wet and the fibres swell. The downside?

It’s heavier than polyester (typically 400-500 gsm compared to polyester’s 68-75 gsm) and takes ages to dry out properly.

Ripstop nylon deserves a special mention. It’s my go-to for lightweight camping now. The reinforced thread pattern means tiny tears don’t spread – something I wish I’d known before buying my first cheap tent!

The best ripstop nylon tents come with a silicon coating (silnylon) that provides a hydrostatic head rating of up to 3000mm.

When it comes to weather resistance, UV protection is something many campers overlook. I made this mistake with my first polyester tent, leaving it set up in my garden for a summer.

The UV degradation was visible within weeks! These days, I always check the UV resistance rating – look for fabrics treated with UV inhibitors that offer UPF 50+ protection.

Maintenance requirements vary significantly between materials. Steel frames need regular checks for rust, especially if you camp near the coast. A light coating of WD-40 every few months does wonders.

Aluminium frames are generally maintenance-free, but watch out for bent sections if you’re rough with setup.

For fabrics, canvas requires the most attention. You’ll need to ensure it’s completely dry before storage, and occasionally retreat it with canvas waterproofing spray.

I do this every 12-18 months. Polyester and nylon are easier – a gentle wash with non-detergent soap when needed and reproofing every 2-3 years usually does the trick.

Those cheaper materials might save you money initially, but replacing a tent every couple of years quickly adds up.
Plus, there’s nothing worse than discovering your tent isn’t up to scratch when you’re halfway through a weekend tramp in the Tararuas!

Remember to check the denier rating on your fabrics too – for floor material, I wouldn’t go below 150D if you want it to last.

The walls can be lighter at 70D, but anything less and you’re asking for trouble with our Kiwi thorny bushes!

4-Comfort and Ergonomic Factors

Getting the seat height right is absolutely crucial. Over the years, I’ve found that the sweet spot for most people is when their feet rest flat on the floor with their knees at a 90-degree angle.

For reference, that usually means a seat height between 40-50 cm for most adults. I learned this the hard way when I spent a term with a chair that was just 2 cm too high – my legs would go numb during marking sessions!

When it comes to seat depth, you want about 2-3 fingers’ width between the back of your knees and the seat edge.

Most ergonomic chairs have a depth between 40-45 cm. I’ve noticed my taller students often struggle with standard seats being too shallow, which forces them to perch awkwardly at the front.

The lumbar support story is interesting. Your lower back should have a slight curve supported by the chair back.

Modern ergonomic chairs typically offer adjustable lumbar support between 15-25 cm above the seat.

After helping outfit our staff room, I discovered that getting this wrong is a common cause of that mid-afternoon back fatigue.

Armrests might seem straightforward, but there’s actually quite a science to them. They should let your shoulders stay relaxed while typing.

The optimal height is when your elbows form a 90-degree angle. Most quality chairs offer adjustability of 20-30 cm above the seat.

Weight distribution is often overlooked but dead important.

A five-point base provides the best stability – trust me, I’ve seen enough three-point chairs tip over during enthusiastic class discussions!

The base diameter should be at least 50-60 cm for proper support.

5-Size and Portability

When it comes to packed-down dimensions, I’ve found this to be absolutely crucial for planning trips.

My current 4-person dome tent compresses down to about 60 x 20 x 20 cm, which is pretty standard for this size.

But here’s what I wish someone had told me earlier: don’t just trust the bag size it comes in! My first tent claimed similar dimensions, but trying to get it back in that bag was like trying to stuff a sheep into a postbox.

These days, I look for tents with compression straps and bags about 20% larger than the stated packed size.

Vehicle space is something that caught me out on my first camping trip to Abel Tasman. The packed length of poles can be a real gotcha – some extend to 65-70 cm, which might not fit sideways in smaller boots.

I’ve found most standard car boots can handle tents up to 6-person size, but anything larger might require folding down seats or roof rack transport.

For my Suzuki Swift, I learned to look for tents with shorter pole sections (around 45 cm) that pack into a more cubic shape.

The weight factor really depends on how you’re planning to use your tent. For car camping, my 4-person tent weighs about 8 kg, which is perfectly fine.

But when I tried taking that same tent on a tramping trip to the Routeburn Track… mate, what a mistake!

Now I know better – for tramping, you want to keep tent weight under 2.5 kg per person. Most quality backpacking tents these days weigh between 1.8-2.5 kg for a 2-person setup.

Assembly time varies hugely between designs. My current tent takes about 8 minutes to set up solo in good conditions.

The key features that make setup easier are colour-coded poles, clip-on attachments (rather than pole sleeves), and pre-attached guylines.

I’ve timed myself setting up different designs, and here’s what I’ve found realistic for one person:

• Pop-up tents: 2-3 minutes
• Standard dome tents: 8-12 minutes
• Tunnel tents: 12-15 minutes
• Large family tents: 20-25 minutes

Those notorious coastal winds don’t make for great learning conditions! And always check if all parts are there – I once drove three hours to a campsite only to find I was missing two crucial pegs.

6-Weather Resistance and Seasonal Use

The whole waterproofing thing can be pretty confusing at first. When I started camping, I didn’t realise that hydrostatic head ratings actually mattered.

Now I know better! For our Kiwi conditions, you want at least 3000mm for the flysheet and 5000mm for the groundsheet.

I learned this the hard way during a particularly wet weekend in the Tararuas – my old 2000mm rated tent didn’t stand a chance against those horizontal rains.

UV protection is something that often gets overlooked, but it’s dead important in New Zealand. Our harsh sun can absolutely wreck a tent’s fabric. Look for materials with UPF 50+ ratings and UV inhibitors.

My first tent started deteriorating after just one summer because it wasn’t properly UV-treated. These days, I make sure to get tents with proper UV resistance – they might cost a bit more, but they’ll last years longer.

Ventilation features are crucial, especially if you’re camping up north in summer. You want multiple mesh panels and at least two vents at different heights to create proper airflow.

The best setup I’ve found is having low vents near the ground and high vents in the roof – this creates what we call a chimney effect.

In my current tent, I can even keep the ventilation going during light rain thanks to the extended rain flies over the vents.

When it comes to all-season use, it’s about more than just waterproofing. You need strong pole structure for those spring winds (especially around Wellington!), good ventilation for summer, solid waterproofing for autumn, and snow-shedding capabilities if you’re winter camping.

The best tents I’ve used have adjustable ventilation, sturdy aluminium poles that can handle snow loads up to 20kg, and guy-out points every 50cm or so around the fly.

I now make it a habit to inspect and reseal the main seams every 12 months.

And don’t forget to test your tent’s weather resistance with a garden hose before taking it into the backcountry – much better to find any issues at home than halfway up a mountain!

7-Budget Considerations and Value for Money

I used to think saving money on camping chairs was clever – until I went through three $30 chairs in one summer!

The truth about entry-level chairs (those under $50) is pretty sobering. While they might seem like a bargain, they typically have weight limits around 100kg and use thin aluminium frames that bend easily. However, they can work fine for occasional weekend camping if you’re careful.

Premium options ($150-300) are a different story altogether. My current chair was a bit of a splurge at $220, but it’s lasted four years of regular use.

The higher-end models usually feature powder-coated steel frames, 600D polyester fabric (compared to 300D in cheaper models), and weight ratings up to 150kg. Plus, they often include features like proper lumbar support and adjustable armrests.

Let’s talk about which features are worth the extra dollars. From my experience, padded armrests aren’t worth paying extra for – they often crack and peel after a season.

However, I’d definitely spend more for a higher weight rating and better frame construction. The difference between a 19mm and 25mm diameter frame tube is massive when it comes to stability.

Here’s where I reckon you should save vs splurge:

Save on:

• Cup holders (basic ones work fine)
• Carry bags (they all wear out anyway)
• Fancy colours or patterns
• Side tables (rarely used)

Splurge on:

• Frame thickness (at least 22mm diameter)
• Fabric density (minimum 450D)
• Weight rating (aim for 120kg+)
• Reinforced stitching at stress points

The long-term value really shows in the details.

My premium chair costs about $55 per year of use so far, while those cheap chairs worked out to about $90 per year when they kept breaking. Sometimes spending more actually saves money in the long run!

Just check the manufacturing date if you can, as some sale stock might be older models.

Conclusion:

Selecting the right camping chair is crucial for enjoying New Zealand’s stunning outdoors in comfort.

Remember to prioritise your specific needs – whether that’s portability for tramping or comfort for long camping weekends.

Consider testing chairs before purchasing if possible, and don’t forget to factor in our unique weather conditions.

Ready to elevate your camping experience? Head to your local outdoor retailer and try out some chairs using this guide as your checklist!

FAQ

What is the best weight for a portable camping chair?

The ideal weight for a portable camping chair is between 2-4 kg for regular camping, or under 1 kg for tramping/hiking. Anything over 5 kg is considered heavy and better suited for car camping only.

How much should I spend on a good camping chair?

A quality camping chair typically costs between $50-150 NZD. Budget options under $30 often lack durability, while premium chairs over $200 offer additional features like full recline or deluxe padding.

What’s the most comfortable type of camping chair?

Moon chairs and padded director’s chairs typically offer the most comfort. Look for models with high backs, padded armrests, and a seat height of 40-45cm for easy entry/exit.

How long do camping chairs usually last?

With proper care, a quality camping chair should last 3-5 years with regular use. Premium models can last 5-8 years, while budget chairs might need replacement after 1-2 seasons.

Are camping chairs waterproof?

Most camping chairs are water-resistant rather than fully waterproof. While the fabric repels light rain, prolonged exposure to wet conditions can cause damage. Look for chairs with powder-coated frames to prevent rust.